A Lesson on Hankies #1 – Antique Monogrammed Hankies

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note: I am reposting some of my most popular posts from another blog that I ran with my mother that is closing down. I did not want all of our hard work to be lost and knew my readers here probably had not seen it!

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I’ve spent alot of time drifting on my blog–you get whatever is happening in my life. However the purpose was to share my knowledge–or what I like about antiques. First and foremost is my love of antique textiles.Not many people understand my fascination with hankies–except other hanky lovers. To me they are fine works of art on a 10″ x 10″ square of the finest linen. To purchase a hanky with the same level of detailed hand-embroidery would cost you several hundred dollars today.

While hankies were made all over the world, my favorite workmanship are hankies made in Belgium, Switzerland and Madeira.

You don’t have to be a hanky collector to appreciate a nice hanky. The non-collector purchases a hanky most often for a gift–a bride being the number one recipient. Brides often buy from me, and use the hankies as gifts or part of a gift basket for bridesmaids, in addition to using the hanky for “something old” and “something blue” if it has blue embroidery on it.

If you see a fabulous hanky damaged, make a sachet out of it. Don’t let the fine embroidery go to waste.

I’ve attempted to categorize hankies in a way that you’ll understand and encourage you to spot a fine hanky.

Applique & Shadow-work Hankies

Madeira hankies must have invented the use of applique and shadow-work. Applique is when they take a piece of fabric and stitch it on top of the hanky–hence “applique”. Shadowwork is when they put the fabric underneath, or stitch underneath, to create a “shadow” on top. I don’t think I’ve seen a Swiss hanky that has this.

The blue flowers are the applique-work on this hanky.
Note that the L is made up of embroidery and shadowwork, making a large monogram.

Like the L hanky, the W below was made by the same manufacturer.

Below are some variations, possibly by the same manufacturer.

Note the flowers are the same for the last 3 hankies compared to the earlier ones.

The embroidery on the hankies with the applique letter can become more elaborate.

Similar to the D above, only in white shadowwork

The hanky below is a real favorite of mine. It has pale grey embroidery and a separate organdy flower with loose petals not attached to the hanky. This design with the flower is a whole collecting category by itself–which I will share with you later.

Hankies can also have the letter be an applique, instead of embroidery

While this is simple, notice that the appliqued fabric is enhanced with embroidery

Below are some appliqued monograms that are more elaborate. The K in this hanky has leaves that edge the hanky.

The hanky below has the label “Madeira” and has some wonderful bellfowers accenting the somewhat modern-looking angular H.

The hanky below is an M done in a french script style. I love the detailed embroider surrounding the M.

Notice the applique flower has some openwork, buratto I believe.

Lastly, I’d like to share my favorite applique monogram, complete with embroidery and a lace edge.

This next section of applique work shows applique flowers in combination with shadowwork and french style script monograms.

The bows are shadowwork, the R is french script in heavy padded satin stitch, with an applique flower in the corner.

Applique flowers in the corner.

The next group shows hankies with applique flowers surrounding the monogram–making more of a “medallion”.

The applique flowers are a creamy satin – interesting texture.

One of those unusual hankies with the all-white applique.

I hardly ever see red in a monogram. I love the contrasting grey stitching. The flowers are applique.

Unusual V Hanky–V’s are hard to find. White creamy applique flowers.

Simple medallion with one applique flower, shadowwork and embroidery. I like the pink G monogram

The lavender monogram looks great, I think all these flowers are shadow-work.

Most of the shadow-work tends to be colored, although not always. They are Madeira hankies, I don’t think I’ve seen any good Made in China knock-offs. Below are two examples of P Monograms.

Below are more examples of shadow-work.

This hanky is unusual with the flowers on one side of the B monogram. I love the applique and shadow-work flowers

The shadow-work bows are really sweet. Great for a wedding hanky.

Another example with grey shadow-work, some cutwork and pale aqua contrasts beautifully.

Applique medallion with shadow-work leaves. Great aqua blue embroidery

I love the shadow-work medallion on this monogram, plus a shadow-work edge on the hanky. Beautiful!

Organdy Flowers

The hankies below are really special. They have organdy flowers/ butterflies attached to create a 3-D effect. The organdy is light and delicate.

Butterflies look like they landed on the hanky for the photo shoot!

Note the petals of the organdy flower are not attached. Hanky has Madeira label

Fabulous hanky with loose organdy leaves surrounding this R monogram.

Monogrammed Hankies – in a Circle Medallion

The hankies below are all hand embroidered with a french script style monogram, padded satin stitch. There are various designs, all circular.

Simple delicate blue embroidery makes an elegant statement

a bit of shadow-work, and wonderful Madeira flowers.

A small medallion of flowers and scrolls enhance this B

The C monogram is on an organdy insert, enhanced with the grey scroll embroidery.

A double row of padded satin stitch makes a great enhanced script monogram. love the daisies, french knots and scrolls.

This is too cool! I love the cicular design around the H!

Unusual D hanky with eyelit embroidery making a cicular medallion with pink embroidery

Another great pink/grey combination. The french script R stands out in this circular medallion of scrolls

A great hanky with cutwork border, lots of padded satin stitch and Madeira forget-me-nots.

Unusual find, a triple monogram hanky in a medallion of flowers and scrolls.

The next 4 hankies are still a circular medallion, but the monogram is not the heavy padded satin stitch–the monogram is done with embroidery making the letter wider.